My initial reaction was along the lines of “that is impressively awful, but they had to actively make it that bad for non-screen reader users, whereas most websites are only passively hostile to non-visual users”, followed shortly by “oh, right… that’s the point.”
Accessibility is something that’s been on my mind ever since customer requirements at work recently meant we had to go back and hastily retrofit such accessibility affordances as we could onto some of our public-facing apps, which, needless to say, were not at all designed with accessibility in mind. It definitely requires a high degree of mindfulness in the design process as well as a willingness to undertake the balancing act of structuring the markup in a way that it both makes sense when read linearly by a screen reader and looks good when rendered visually. If you’ve never tried to use a screen reader with any applications or websites before, you really should. It’s… eye-opening, if you’ll pardon the unintended pun.
It’s “perfectly” readable in the HTML source if you know how it works.